You can't go wrong with the pulled pork tacos from Barrio in The Barlow!

Barrio Fresca Cocina Mexicana at The Barlow in Sebastopol

Carey Sweet

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There are lots of notable Mexican restaurants in Sonoma County, ranging from casual, order-at-the-counter burritos, to the upscale Yucatan-French inspired cuisine at Mateo's Cocina Latina in Healdsburg. Now, Sebastopol's new Barrio Fresca Cocina Mexicana brings the two concepts together, in a relaxed, paper plate kind of place serving mouthwatering dishes crafted with organic seasonal ingredients.

barrio barlow chef

A project of chef Carlos Rosas, the eatery is an expansion of Rosas' longtime Barrio stand at the Marin Farmers' Market, catering, and gourmet salsa company. As a contemporary concept at the Barlow, the focus is decidedly elegant, featuring homemade GMO-free California corn tortillas and local produce.

That translates to creative bites such as a choriloco brunch signature of red corn tortilla topped in potatoes, handmade chorizo, scrambled eggs, pumpkin seed, melted cheese curds, arugula and salsa de chile Morita; or a pork belly torta smothered in chipotle aioli, pico de gallo and peppery arugula.

Tortillas, by the way, come in the colors of the rainbow, flavored with vegetables for red, green, black and yellow. A black tortilla, for example, arrives topped oso manoso style with carne asada, melted curd cheese, Mexican chimichurri, wild arugula and micro greens, while a green tortilla is smothered in mushrooms, potatoes, melted curd cheese and wild arugula.

And while dishes are gourmet and healthy, don't expect dainty. These are satisfying portions, with chips and salsa and fiery hot sauce included with every order.

Note: seating is outdoor-only, but the Barlow brims with lovely fire pit and garden benches, picnic tables and lawns.

Details: 6760 McKinley Street, Ste. 140, Sebastopol, 707-329-6538