Enjoy the New Tisza Bistro in Windsor
European dining has long been a hallmark of Sonoma County, thanks to our many heritages making home here, from Italian to Indian, Mexican, Salvadoran, French, Russian, Japanese… you get the tasty idea.
So welcome to the new Tisza Bistro, debuted in the new Windsor Holiday Inn and offering a mix of German, French, California and American recipes. Yes, German. But if this family-friendly, comfy hotel seems like an unlikely spot for spätzle mac ‘n’ cheese dotted with wild mushrooms, caramelized onion, smoked bacon and hazelnuts, or wiener schnitzel, think again.
Chef Krisztian Karkus is Hungarian, and he offers some German dishes on his lunch and dinner menus because he simply enjoys the cuisine, he says. Otherwise, he prepares Wine Country French comfort food like roasted duck leg confit with Brussels sprouts, butternut squash and brandied cherries, or California bites like Pacific Coast mussels braised with house brewed pale ale, ham hocks and Swiss chard alongside grilled country bread and house fries.
There are also plenty of American classics such as a grass fed cheeseburger, or buttermilk pancake breakfasts.
Previously with Napa’s Meritage Resort, Karkus is an interesting guy. He ran a Hungarian restaurant in Japan, and another spot in Jamaica earlier in his career, and found that he loved the flavors of staples including roasted salmon with potato pancake and carrot puree, or braised lamb shoulder, with Bohemian yeast dumpling, roasted onion, braising vegetables and jus.
So he offers such luxuries on his dinner line-up, and they’re stars well worth exploring.
Yet you can also tuck into more standard fare such as roasted Castroville artichoke slathered in tarragon brown butter and preserved lemon, trout almandine with roasted vegetables, butterball potatoes and lemon caper relish, or a good old grilled ham and cheese and caramelized onion sandwich on Windsor’s BurtoNZ Bakery sourdough alongside a cup of tomato bisque.
Whatever you do, keep room in your belly for dessert. Rolled crepe with walnut cream brims with rum raisins and chocolate ganache, while cheesecake soars above ordinary with Campari stewed berries, burnt orange and salted graham crackers.
Details: Tisza Bistro, 8757 Old Redwood Hwy., Windsor